There are many contributing factors to DW and this only addresses one.

I’ve been fight a little DW for the last couple months. I found that the upper track bar bolt was a little loose. I tightened the sh!t ouf of it and DW was better. Over the next month or so, it started to rear it’s ugly head again. I removed the track bar from the bar to check out what was going on and it wasn’t pretty. The metal sleeve that sits inside the track bar bracket bushing had worn badly. the ends were rounded. The inside was grooved from the threads of the bolt and worst of all the bracket had been heavily worn by the sleeve. The sleeve was fairly rusted and had been deformed from being over tightened and moving around against the bracket. Here’s how I performed the repair:

Parts:
(2) standard 9/16″ fender washers
(2) 3/16″ thick 1/2″ washers (very thick washers)
(1) Short piece of 3/4″ OD, 9/16″ ID steel tubing. This is for a Full Traction track bar. Other brands may be different.
(1) 4″ X 9/16″ fine thread Grade 8 Bolt
(1) 9/16″ fine thread Nylock Nut
If you can find a 9/16″ bolt with a longer shoulder, you can get away with a 3.5″ length. The shoulder length is the important part. You do not want threads to run against the track bar sleeve.

If your bracket is worn the same way that mine was, you’ll need a grinder that can reach into the inside of the bracket, in order to grind down the fill welds. If you do this upgrade before your bracket is worn, you won’t need to do any welding.

I filled the worn grooves on the inside of the bracket as indicated by the arrows in the picture. This picture is after the grooves had been filled and ground. I didn’t get any pics of the worn grooves prior.

I cut the steel tube to the same length as the original tube. I wanted the Id to be slightly larger, so I added one layer of lead tape. Should be a good bearing surface too. I then pressed the steel tube into the bushing.

I took the .5″ washers and enlarged the holes to a perfect 9/16″ hole on a drill press. These will be used as a bearing surface, so the thicker the better. I then welded the first washer in place on the factory bracket. I used a 9/16″ bit to enlarge the factory track bar holes. These holes were originally metric and slightly smaller than 9/16″. I then held the other thick washer on the back of the bracket, using the 9/16″ bolt, while I tack welded the washer in place. I then finish welded the washer in place. I ran the 9/16″ bit through the bracket again, just to clean it up. Prepped painted, greased and re-installed the track bar. Will be interesting to see how long this stays tight.

I also noticed that the flange nut was wearing on the outside of the factory bracket.  Not a good sign, and the welded washer should address that issue.

I’ll consider offering a kit to fix this issue, if there seems to be demand.  Check my website for updates: www.JeepSWAG.com

Couple pics:

Wear from standard install

Trackbar re-installed

Here’s my opinion about Jeep JK replacement brake pads;

Ultimately you get what you pay for. If you are afraid that your rotors are glazed, then the EBC brakes all have an advantage. They are coated with an abrasive that de-glazes the rotors for the first 200 miles. The down side to this is that you need to perform the break in process carefully. No hard braking for the first 200 miles.

The EBC Yellow Stuff is going to give the best bite all around, but they aren’t cheap. If you don’t have any rotor glazing issues, then the value of the Hawk pads is undeniable. They are a very good pad. They are easier on rotors than the Yellow Stuff pads.

You can buy EBC and Hawk Brake Pads at my online store.  www.JeepSWAG.com

EBC Yellow Stuff Jeep JK Fronts:  $119 shipped – EBC Red Stuff $97 shipped – EBC Green Stuff $74 shipped

Hawk Fronts: $78 shipped – Hawk Rears $69.99 shipped

I design and market a line of Jeep JK aftermarket products.  Be sure to check www.JeepSWAG.com